Climbing terms

Climbing has many sport related terms which will mean very little to someone not familiar with the sport, please find a brief below on some of the most common ones you may encounter.

Abseiling / Rappelling

This is the technique used to descend a steep rock face or drop. It is generally used as the way down after completing climbs where you cannot safely walk or climb back down. It is sometimes used as a way of reaching the start of a climb especially on sea cliffs where the only way down to the start may be to abseil. To abseil safely, the rope is securely attached to what is known as a secure anchor point/s (it is always advisable to use more than one in case one fails). An anchor point could be an extremely long stake driven into the ground, a pre-fixed steel bolt, slings round large secure rocks, well placed nuts and friends or a combination of all of them. Whatever anchor point/s you select make sure it/they are “bomb proof”. If you have any doubts, do not abseil or belay from them. It is also vital to check that the rope you are using is long enough to reach the bottom/ground to prevent you abseiling off the end of the rope. Never attempt to abseil unless you have been fully trained or are being supervised by someone experienced or trained to do so. You must be shown the correct way to use your chosen belay device, the correct way to position yourself etc….

Top Anchor: This is a secure part of the rock over which a sling can be placed; either a stake, bolt or tree that you can securely fasten the rope at the top of the climb. It is essential to ensure that whatever method of top anchor/s you use you are 100% confident that they are secure and will support a violent fall.

Bottom Anchor: Similar to a top anchor except generally used at the bottom to secure the belay in the event of the lead climber falling off (essential if the lead climber is heavier than the person who is operating the belay). Various ways to do this include placing passive or active protection, placed in reverse of when climbing i.e. the force will come from the opposite direction than when a climber falls. The force will be an upward motion rather than down.

Top Roping: This is when the person belaying the climb does so from the top, generally after leading the climb or in situation when the rope is not long enough to double up and reach the bottom.Top roping can be slightly trickier than bottom roping and requires accurate set up and positioning, as the person belaying will feel the full weight/force should the climber fall. Incorrect anchor point or set up could result in the person belaying being pulled over the edge.

Bottom Roping: This is when the person belaying does so from the bottom. The rope is attached to the climbers harness and goes up to the top of the climb, through a top anchor and then back down to the person who is to belay. This is ideal for beginners and is the safest way to learn while in single pitch climbs.

Single Pitch: This is a climb which is no longer than the rope you intend to use to complete the climb; it does not have to be completed in two stages. The second person belays from the bottom until the climber reaches the top. The height varies and depends on the rope length. Most climbs that are classed as single pitch climbs are less than 50m and the longest rope generally used is 70m.

Multi Pitch: This is generally a longer climb which is done in stages. This involves the leader climbing as far as possible depending on rope length to a safe belay point (generally designated in climbing books). At this point the leader belays the second up to the same point and is then repeated until the climb is complete.

On Sight: A climb where the climber completes a climb at the first attempt without falling off and with no prior knowledge of the route.

Sit Harness: A traditional harness that has a waist belt and leg loops. Belay Loop Back to top The loop that attaches the waist belt to the leg loops, used as part of securing the rope while climbing or the karabiner while belaying.

Leading / Lead Climber: The first person in the group to attempt the climb who adds protection as they go.

Second: The person who follows the lead climber and removes the protection they have placed.

Crux : This is the hardest move on a climb; the crux of a climb can change the whole grading of what may seem like an easy climb until you reach it.

Passive Protection: A type of anchor which has no moving parts/portions and is generally attached to either a wire or a sling, for example nuts or hexes.

Active Protection / Active Pro : A type of anchor which has moving parts such as cams, also know as SLCD (Spring Loaded Camming Device) or friends. Piton/Pegs Back to top Steel or alloy they are long and driven like stakes into the ground in cracks in the rock to provide secure anchors/belays.

Italian Hitch: A useful knot used for abseiling, rigging and belaying. Figure of Eight Knot Back to top This is the knot used to fasten the climbers harness to the rope. This must always be done correctly and secured with a stopper knot.

Traditional Climbing: This is climbing with the emphasis being to use traditional values. This is usually the term used to describe a climbing a route using leader placed protection, this is then removed by the second

Sports Climbing: This is climbing that uses bolts as the main form of protection, this type of climb allows the climber to concentrate on technique rather than worry about protection.

Big Wall Climbing: Climbing big rock faces that can take several days to complete, this involves special techniques such as sack hauling and the confidence to sleep while a long way from the ground on a sheer rock face (not advisable if you sleep walk!).

Soloing: Climbing without any form of protection or ropes, the most pure form of climbing but the ones with the greatest chance of severe consequences should you fall off.

Bouldering: A form of soloing when the climber does not reach a height greater than one that they can safely fall from without injury, usually no more than 10 – 14 ft

CE: All equipment produced in Europe must have the CE marking. This is for your safety and the marking indicates that sufficient quality control systems are in place during the manufacturing of the product and that it meets the published CEN standards Back to top UIAA Back to top International mountaineering and climbing federation. In 1932 representatives from 18 countries meeting in Chamonix, France, formed the Union Internationale des Association d’Alpinisme and agreed specific tasks to encourage mountaineering for the young, develop international standards, raise awareness about safety, and protect the environment. Today the UIAA is the recognised International Federation and the acknowledged expert on all international climbing and mountaineering matters. The UIAA promotes access for the freedom to enjoy climbing and mountain sports in a responsible way and with minimum impact to the environment. The UIAA helps to protect mountain areas and climbing sites from damaging developments, and encourages development for local communities. www.uiaa.ch/index.aspx www.thebmc.co.uk