Caring for your gear

Q. How many times have you used your climbing gear?

A. Lost count

Q. How important would you say it is that your climbing gear is in pristine condition?

A. Beyond important

Q. How often do you return from a days climbing and check each piece of gear you have used?

A. Most people say hardly ever

It cannot be stressed enough how important it is to check your climbing gear each and every time you use it. The vast majority of climbing gear can become damaged after single usage without a fall.

Slings: Check for general wear and tear or fraying. This can greatly reduce the amount of force needed for the sling to fail. This can easily occur if the sling comes into contact with a sharp edge or through continuous usage.

Harness: Check the whole harness for signs of damage. Like a sling, wear and tear can greatly reduce the force needed to cause failure. Check buckles for signs of cracks along with the rest of the harness for wear and tear. Sharp rocks and constant abrasion can lead to fraying.

Ropes: Check the full length of the rope for visible wear and tear. If the outer sheath is damaged then the core may also be damaged and should not be used. For safety details regarding your rope refer to the manufacturers safety advice about the maximum number of falls before the rope is recommended for changing. The general rule is the lighter and thinner the rope, the lower fall rating it will have. Brush loose grit and dirt from your rope after use as this can lead to increased wear and tear.

Karabiners: Karabiners can wear when constantly rubbed by another object usually under pressure - like a rope passing through the karabiner. The surface can become eroded removing a small amount of the karabiner. This will reduce the load bearing capacity of the karabiner. This kind of damage can be seen in the form of grooves on the karabiners surface. If this can bee seen it is advisable not to use it again. Stress cracks can also occur. These sometimes start so small they cannot be seen with the naked eye, it is advisable to check for them with a magnifying glass.

Cams/Friends: Check the movement of the cam to ensure all four heads are synchronized and not twisted - the last thing you want is to find that your size 3 cam has jammed and cannot be used at 100ft when it is the only thing that will fit! Also check for other signs of wear and tear.

Nuts/Hexes: The most important thing to check is the wire. Check each one for fraying or wear that could reduce the load bearing capacity.

Belay: Similar to karabiners, belays should be checked for grooves and cracks. Due to the large number of belays on the market it is advisable to check manufacturers instructions for care instructions.

Climbing Shoes: Climbing shoes are not cheap and they will last far longer and provide better friction, which is after all why you wear them, if you keep the soles clean both during and after use. If mud sticks to the sole or grit becomes embedded, the friction will be greatly reduced. Always be sure to wipe them before commencing a climb.

Tips to caring for your climbing gear

Check all items of equipment for wear and tear every time you use them

Never leave your climbing gear wet in your bag

Never pack dry climbing gear with wet climbing gear

Keep a log of any major falls your rope or other pieces of gear are subject to

Clean your gear every time you have used it

Salt water can corrode most pieces of climbing gear - check manufacturers instructions regarding cleaning after contact with salt water
NEVER USE ANY EQUIPMENT THAT YOU THINK MAY BE DAMAGED IN ANY WAY........ This is by no means a conclusive guide to caring for your climbing gear, it simply provides the basic rules which will hopefully remind you to take care of your climbing gear so it can take care of you.

For more detailed information on caring for climbing gear, contact the British Mountaineering Council who have produced a 60 page book on caring for climbing gear. www.thebmc.co.uk.